This is one of my favorite books I’ve ever read, and probably my single favorite autobiography. It’s a totally wild tale of growing up in 1960s southern California/Hawaii and the years following chasing waves all over the world. It’s The Endless Summer on paper, and in a lot of ways makes it feel even more real than a screen can.
I could basically care less about surfing, but I could read Finnegan’s description of waves and surf adventures all day. And hey, he won a Pulitzer for it in 2016!
Also I lied about reading it. I actually listened to the audio version of this book which he narrates. It’s so neat hearing it read in his voice, like sitting around a campfire and listening to him tell travel stories for hours on end.